Wind lifts shingles at the edges, the eaves, the rakes and the ridge, where it moves fastest over the roof. The signs are lifted tabs, cracked sealant, missing shingles, bent ridge caps and metal that has moved. Many of them can be seen from the ground or the attic, and a few need a close look on the roof.
Key takeaways
- Wind damage starts at the edges, the eaves, the rakes and the ridge, and it spreads inward if it is not repaired.
- A lifted tab or a line of missing shingles at the edge is the most common sign after a gusty storm.
- Cracked or dried sealant can be found by lifting a tab carefully, and a clean nail head is a sign the seal has gone.
- Ridge caps that are bent or cracked let water in at the top of the roof, and they are worth photographing from below.
- The attic shows wind-driven rain as stains on the underside of the decking near the edges.
Why does wind attack the edges of a roof first?
Air moves fastest over the edges and corners of a roof, and wind that gets under the edge lifts the shingle nearest to it. The edge has the least overlap to hold the shingle down, so the seal breaks there first.
A gust flows over the roof and separates into a strong current at the eaves and the rakes. The shingle at the edge has no shingle beyond it to hold it, and a lifted edge can pull the next shingle loose. The damage then moves inward along the course.
The ridge is the other point where wind does damage. Ridge caps are small pieces of shingle bent over the peak and held by a few nails and sealant. A gust can bend, crack or tear them away, and once the ridge is open, water runs down into the attic at the top of the roof.
The pattern of damage is also a clue. Wind damage tends to cluster on the side of the roof that faces the storm and at the corners, while damage from a gust that came from another direction appears on the opposite side. The technician notes the pattern on each slope and compares it with the direction of the storm's gusts where the record shows them.
What can you see from the ground?
From the ground you may see missing shingles, a line of bare decking at the eave, a bent ridge cap or metal flashing that has moved. Those are clear signs, and they are worth photographing with the date.
Look along the eaves and the rakes from the yard, with a pair of binoculars if you have them. A gap in a row of shingles, a shingle that is curled up at the tab, or a dark line where the shingle has lifted can all be seen. Do not climb a ladder to look closely, and do not walk the roof to check.
Shingle debris in the yard or along the fence on the side the wind came from is also a sign. It shows that shingles have come off, and the roof above that side should be inspected.
A homeowner who sees a lifted tab from the ground should photograph it from a safe spot and avoid stepping onto the roof to get a closer look. A photograph with a clear view of the edge and the tab is useful to the technician, who can then plan the visit and bring the right equipment.
What do the signs in the attic show?
In the attic, wind-driven rain shows as stains on the underside of the decking near the edges, wet insulation at the eaves and daylight through the decking at a missing section. Those signs show the water has got past the covering.
Look from the access hatch with a light, and do not step off the joists. Check the decking near the eaves and the rakes for dark stains, and check the ridge line for daylight. A stain that runs along a rafter from the edge is a sign that water came in at the edge.
Photograph anything you see with the date, and note the location on the house. That note helps the technician find the spot on the roof quickly.
How do you check the sealant without damaging the roof?
Lifting a tab with a gentle hand can show whether the sealant has bonded. A sealant strip with a clear tar mark on the shingle below is still holding, and a clean strip with no mark is a sign that the seal has gone.
This check is best left to a technician on the roof, because lifting a shingle that is brittle can crack it. A technician will test each tab, mark the ones that are not sealed and note whether the shingle can be re-sealed or must be replaced.
A shingle that bends without cracking can often be re-sealed. A shingle that is brittle, creased or torn is replaced, because it will not hold a seal again.
When a technician lifts a shingle to check it, the crew works in a way that protects the surrounding shingles. The shingle is lifted from its edge, the nails are checked for the correct position, and the surrounding course is inspected, because one lifted tab often means the neighbors are close to failing too.
What does a bent or missing ridge cap mean?
A bent or missing ridge cap means the peak of the roof is open to water and wind. It is a repair that should be made soon, because water runs into the attic at the top of the roof when the ridge is open.
Ridge caps are often the first part of a roof to be damaged by a strong gust, because they stand up above the rest of the covering. A cap that has been bent back or cracked can be replaced, and the ridge is then re-sealed to the shingles.
A missing ridge cap on a roof that has been hit by hail should be recorded with the hail marks, because the two can be told apart. The record shows which was caused by the wind and which by the hail.
Which signs point to wind and which to hail?
Wind leaves lifted tabs, creased shingles and torn edges. Hail leaves round bruises, granule loss and dents in metal. A roof can show both after one storm, and the inspection separates them because the repairs are different.
A wind mark is usually a tab that is lifted, creased or missing, and it is most common at the edges. A hail mark is a round bruise in the shingle surface, and it is most common on the windward slopes. Metal dents show hail clearly.
The distinction also matters for an insurance claim. A claim that describes wind damage on a slope that shows only hail hits will be questioned. Keeping the two in separate sections of the record is how a homeowner avoids that problem.
The sign that matters most in the attic is the one that shows water on a rafter near the edge. A single wet rafter with a stain running along its top can be the first sign that a wind-lifted edge has been letting water in for some time, and the attic check is what finds it.
| Sign | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Lifted tab at the eave or rake | The sealant has let go along the edge; often re-sealable if the shingle is flexible |
| Missing shingles in a line | A gust has torn shingles off; the decking below must be checked for damage |
| Bare nail heads with no tar mark | The sealant strip has failed; the shingle needs re-sealing or replacing |
| Bent or cracked ridge cap | The peak is open to water; repair the ridge soon |
| Dark stain on the decking near the edge | Water has got in at the edge; trace the path from the attic |
| Daylight through the decking | A section of covering or decking is missing; cover it at once |
| Moved or bent metal flashing | The joint is open; reset the flashing and re-seal the joint |
| Debris on the yard side the wind came from | Shingles have come off on that side; inspect that slope first |
When should you call for a wind inspection?
Call when you see a lifted or missing shingle, a leak after a windy night, a bent ridge cap or any daylight in the attic. A visit records the wind marks and the state of the edges.
A lifted tab on a dry day can wait for a planned visit. A leak, an open section or a ridge that is letting water in should be seen soon, and the line is answered around the clock on (833) 751-2102.
The inspection records each wind mark with its location and photograph, and it separates the wind marks from any hail marks on the same roof. That record is useful for the repair and for any claim the homeowner opens.
What should the homeowner keep after a wind inspection?
Keep the report with the photographs, the storm date and the repair invoice. The record should show which damage was from wind, which was from hail and which was already there.
A dated report is the clearest record of wind damage, and it is what an insurer will ask for. The insurer decides what the policy covers and what it pays, so the homeowner should keep the record with the policy papers.
A repair record that says what was replaced and what was re-sealed is also useful. The next inspection can then compare the roof with the record and show what is new.
Frequently asked questions
Can wind lift shingles without breaking them?
Yes. A gust can break the sealant and lift a shingle that is still whole. A shingle that has lost its seal can flutter, crack along the nail line or blow off in a later storm.
Is a lifted shingle an emergency?
Not usually, if the roof is still dry. A lifted tab on a dry day can wait for a planned visit. A leak or an open section should be seen as soon as possible.
Can you re-seal a lifted shingle?
Often, if the shingle still bends without cracking. A brittle or creased shingle is replaced, because it will not hold a seal again.
Why does the damage show at the edges?
Wind moves fastest over the edges, and the edge has the least overlap to hold the shingle down. That is why wind damage usually starts at the eave, the rake and the ridge.
How do I tell wind damage from age?
Wind damage usually appears as a fresh break in the sealant, a clean nail head or a torn edge. Age shows as a dried, cracked or curled shingle across the roof. The technician records which is which.
Who decides whether a wind claim is paid?
The insurer does, under the policy. The inspection record supports the claim by showing the damage and the storm date, and it does not set the payment.
Should I cover the roof myself with a tarp after a windy storm?
No. A tarp fixed from a ladder or on a wet roof can fall or lift, and the roof is not safe to walk after a storm. Call a crew, protect the interior and keep people clear of the area below the damage.
Sources
- National Weather Service, Austin/San Antonio office
- Federal Emergency Management Agency, home protection information
- NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, Storm Events Database
This guide is general information for Travis County homeowners, not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Prices are estimates. See our disclaimer.